DIY Toilet Replacement

Replacing a toilet yourself isn't exactly low difficulty — the ceramic is quite heavy and you have to mind the leveling and the waterproofing — but if you take it step by step in order, you can absolutely do it yourself.

Here's the step-by-step DIY method for a safe, clean swap.

Supplies

• Essentials: A new toilet (skirted, two-piece, whatever suits your taste), a spacer (the fitting that connects the bottom of the toilet to the floor drain), white cement (or bio-silicone)
• Basic tools: Adjustable wrench, tongue-and-groove pliers, screwdriver, utility knife, sponge, rubber gloves, a level (a phone app works too)

Step 1: Remove the old toilet

1. Shut off the water: Turn the angle valve (stop valve) behind (or below) the toilet fully clockwise to cut the supply.
2. Drain the tank: Flush to empty as much water from the tank as possible, then use a paper cup or sponge to soak up any water left in the bowl. (Skip this and dirty water goes everywhere when you pull the toilet.)
3. Disconnect the hose: Use the wrench to detach the high-pressure hose connecting the angle valve to the tank.
4. Free the toilet:

• If there are bolts on either side of the toilet base (usually capped), loosen them with a wrench.
• If the toilet is bedded to the floor with white cement or silicone, score the gaps with a utility knife and tap the cement with a hammer to break it free.
• Rock the toilet gently side to side to break it loose from the floor, then lift it to a safe spot.

1. Block the drain: To keep out odors and debris, plug the floor drain (waste pipe) opening with plastic or a rag.

Step 2: Assemble and prep the new toilet

1. Assemble the internals: Fit the components inside the new tank (the flapper, the fill valve that lets water in) according to the instructions first.
2. Seat the spacer: Firmly press the spacer onto the outlet on the bottom face of the ceramic base. (This is the key fitting that blocks odors and leaks.)

Step 3: Install the new toilet and level it

1. Open the drain and set it down: Pull out the rag plugging the drain, lift the new toilet, and lower it carefully so the floor pipe and the spacer line up.
2. Level it:

• Use a phone level app or a level to check that the toilet is level front-to-back and side-to-side.
• If it isn't, slip small plastic shims or wedges under the base until it's dead level. (If it's not level, the toilet can rock and crack later.)

1. Tighten the bolts: Snug up the fixing bolts on the sides of the base with nuts. (Don't over-tighten — the ceramic can crack. Just firm enough that it feels snug.)

Step 4: Connect the plumbing and test

1. Reconnect the hose: Reattach the hose from the angle valve to the new tank and tighten with the wrench.
2. Open the valve: Reopen the angle valve you shut off and let the tank fill.
3. Leak test: Once full, flush and check carefully for any water leaking at the base seam or the connections.

Step 5: Finish the floor (grouting)

1. Apply white cement: If there are no leaks and everything looks right, mix the white cement with water and use a rubber tool (or a gloved hand) to neatly fill the gap between the toilet base and the floor.
2. Final cleanup: Wipe off any white cement marks on the base with a slightly damp sponge and smooth the shape.
3. Cure: Refrain from using the bathroom for at least 24 hours and let it dry with no water touching it until the cement fully sets.

Tip: Toilets are heavy and easy to crack, so I strongly recommend two people working together on the removal and setting steps.

Field knowledge

Hey, it's Hammer Man. Toilet replacement this time. This is my younger brother's specialty — he's probably replaced thousands of toilets by now. He probably dreams about replacing toilets in his sleep. hahaha

Let's get into it.

First, the supplies — a toilet, obviously. These days toilets come in varieties that are honestly ridiculous. Wildly different by brand, and imported ones are a pain for a regular person to swap. For that, call someone in. I'll cover the basic type.

The parts all come with it. But there's one problem here. The standard plumbing distance is 300, and in apartments that's usually close enough to not matter, but houses are a bit different. They're plumbed and spaced at 200, sometimes around 350. That's the spacer (the fitting connecting the toilet base to the floor drain), and if it doesn't line up there's something called a non-destructive offset. Use that.

Measure the distance, take it to the hardware store, and they'll give you either a standard offset or a non-destructive offset as needed. Definitely measure from the wall to the bottom of the toilet with a tape and tell the hardware store that number.

But honestly, spacer and offset — you're better off not using them. The pipe going down gets narrower. In commercial settings they clog a lot.

For removal, I'll skip the basics the AI covered. Angle valve off, tank off — YouTube will show you how to take it apart. The thing is, the AI's method is technically correct, but in practice almost nobody removes a toilet that way. Not as far as I know.

First, the silicone. Better to score it in one pass with a utility knife and peel it off. It's probably thick from back in the day. Get the blade as far down at the base as you can, press it flat against the floor, and scrape in one pass to separate it.

And the cement. Don't use a hammer on this. Hit it wrong with a hammer and the toilet cracks, and you might get hurt. The method is simple: kick it. Thunk. Thunk. It just comes off. The white cement probably comes with it. Cleanest and simplest way.

If there's cement residue left on the floor, at that point use a flathead or a chisel — or if you don't have those, grab any stiff thin piece of metal and whack it and it separates.

And once it's separated, block the drain. Or the odor comes up. Odor is one thing, but if something from the cleaning supplies falls in, that gets ugly fast. In an apartment, if it drops into the plumbing, you've got a real problem. Always plug the hole. Non-negotiable.

For assembling the parts, just mind one thing. There's a big fitting inside for the flush. You know how when you push the handle the lid comes up and the water goes down? If it leaks after assembly, nine times out of ten it's leaking right there. Look it up on YouTube. Make sure you check it before connecting. That one genuinely confuses beginners.

And the AI says over-tightening cracks the ceramic. It absolutely won't crack. You'll just wreck the bolt. Don't worry about breaking it.

After assembly comes the spacer. Not lunch. Lunch is food. Here it's the spacer — the fitting connecting the toilet to the drain. Make sure you attach that to the toilet before you set the toilet onto the pipe. Otherwise lining up the hole is brutally hard. Remember that.

Oh, and level is life. Otherwise you'll be sitting all lopsided. But most homes don't have a level. And buying one just for this — they're expensive these days too. It's not like it's your trade. Just fill a water bottle, set it on the cap, and read the level off the water.

Oh, while I'm at it — the toilet lid. This one trips me up too. It's different by manufacturer and there are too many methods, so read the lid assembly instructions carefully. Skip the reading and you'll regret it.

For the finish, white cement or silicone. That's up to you. But there is one important thing. Whether it's silicone or white cement, before you finish the gap between the toilet base and the floor, flush the toilet and check for leaks. Stick it down and find a leak afterward and you're out of luck.

And give it plenty of time. Don't use it for about 8 hours. Got it?